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Planning estimate · Millcreek, UTAlmost every kitchen floor failure is a subfloor failure. This prices the surface you want and, just as carefully, what is underneath it — because that is the part that decides whether the floor lasts twenty years or two winters.
Tile has effectively no ability to flex. If the subfloor moves underfoot, the grout cracks and then the tiles debond, usually within a couple of winters. Post-war joists in this valley were sized for sheet vinyl, not for stone, so a springy floor is a genuinely common finding in Millcreek's older kitchens — and stiffening it is the difference between a floor you lay once and one you lay twice.
There is a second thing worth knowing about pre-1960 floors here. Sheet vinyl, vinyl-asbestos tile and the black cut-back mastic under them were all in normal use in the houses this city was built out with after the war, and all three can contain asbestos. Intact and covered it is not a hazard; breaking it up or sanding it is what makes it one. A test costs a couple of hundred dollars, it is on the extras list, and it is the cheapest way to find out which kind of job this is.
The third question is whether the floor runs under the cabinets or around them. Running it wall to wall before new cabinets go in uses more material and far less cutting, so the cost difference is smaller than it looks — and it means the next person to change the cabinets is not left with a hole in the floor. If the cabinets are coming out anyway, it is almost always the better call.
Luxury vinyl plank to natural stone is roughly a two-and-a-half-fold spread per square foot, before any subfloor work.
Flat and sound needs nothing. Uneven needs levelling. Springy needs stiffening before any tile goes down. Damaged — usually under a dishwasher that has been leaking quietly — needs replacing.
One layer is a day. Several layers built up over the decades is several, and the last one is always stuck down hardest.
Around means scribing to every toe-kick and appliance opening. Wall to wall means more material and much less cutting.
In a pre-1960 Millcreek kitchen, test the old floor before disturbing it. It is a small line and it answers a real question.
An electric mat under tile is cheap while the floor is up and effectively impossible afterwards. In a Utah January it is the upgrade people mention most.
Send a couple of photos of the kitchen, rough dimensions, and say roughly when the house was built. You will get a straight answer about what the layout, the panel and the plumbing will allow before anyone talks about finishes.
This site publishes $1,200 to $3,500 for luxury vinyl, $1,800 to $4,500 for ceramic tile, $2,200 to $5,500 for porcelain, $3,000 to $7,500 for natural stone and $3,500 to $8,500 for hardwood. The calculator lands inside those for a kitchen of the size those figures assume.
No. Millcreek's exemption list names "carpeting" and "tiling" among the work that does not require a building permit. Adding electric underfloor heating does, because it is a new circuit.
Luxury vinyl plank is the sensible default for most kitchens — it tolerates spills, it is warm underfoot, and it forgives a subfloor that is not perfect. Porcelain is the most durable. Hardwood is the most beautiful and the least forgiving of a slow dishwasher leak. Stone is the most expensive to lay properly because of what it needs underneath.
If the cabinets are being replaced anyway, yes. It costs a little more in material and much less in labour, and it means a future cabinet change does not leave a gap in the floor. If the cabinets are staying, fitting around them is the only sensible option.
Almost always because the floor beneath it flexes. Tile cannot bend, so any movement in the subfloor goes into the weakest line, which is the grout. Fixing it means addressing the subfloor — an uncoupling membrane, a thicker underlayment, or sistering the joists — not regrouting again.
In a house built before about 1980 it is worth testing first. Sheet vinyl, vinyl-asbestos tile and black mastic from that era can contain asbestos, and it is the removal rather than the presence that creates the risk. Testing is inexpensive and it is on the extras list above.
Under tile or stone on a kitchen floor in Utah, most people who have it say yes. It is an electric mat laid before the tile, so it costs little while the floor is up and cannot sensibly be added later. It is also a new circuit, which means a permit.
Two to four days for a small kitchen and three to six for a larger one, plus curing time for tile before it can be walked on. Removing several layers of old flooring can add days on its own, which is why that question is on the calculator.